Ahead of the Game, Synthetic Turf Maintenance, LLC

Residential Installation & Field and Home Maintenance

About


About
We are a Long Island based Shaw Grass Distributor & Installer.  With over 18 years experience of Installation and Maintenance.

Licensed and Insured

Let the kids roll around in the yard because there will no longer be a need for harmful fertilizers and pesticides. During the summer families can be comfortable in the heat with our HydroChill, which can cool surfaces up to 50 degrees.
Shawgrass has the product offerings that can transform an outdoor space into the focal point of a home. Together, we can create an outdoor space you can enjoy by providing a rich, lush, and beautiful look year-round.
We specialize in lawns, backyard courts, playgrounds, and pet areas.

Synthetic Turf


Pet Turf


Pet Turf
Our pets are a big part of our family, and we know they’re a big part of your family, too. With Shawgrass pet turf, animals will love their new space, except they may be upset they can’t dig anymore holes. Our tough turf and drainage system help make life easier by creating a yard that requires almost no maintenance. Plus, it’s safe because it contains no harmful pesticides and fertilizers, and when your pet has to go, our no mess surface is easy to clean.

HydroChill


HydroChill

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HOW DOES IT WORK
HydroChill is a patented technology that has been developed and vetted through years of research in both a laboratory, and real world, setting. HydroChill is a precoat that is applied to the sand infill. It is activated by adding moisture and can provide significant cooling for days, depending upon local conditions.
As the synthetic lawn surface is heated by the sun, moisture stored in HydroChill is released slowly through evaporative cooling. Evaporative cooling is the same means of thermoregulation that a body uses to cool itself through sweating. The evaporating moisture removes heat, leaving a cooler, more comfortable surface for families and pets.
The ambient temperature does not necessarily dictate surface temperature. The solar radiation time period, sun’s angle, cloud cover, wind, and other elements all contribute to the temperature of the surface.
HydroChill provides maximum benefit when the sun is directly overhead, as shown in the solar radiation calendar. During the summer months, the sun is positioned overhead, causing surfaces to absorb more energy, resulting in hotter temperatures. HydroChill works best during the hottest part of a clear day when relief is needed.
A standard lawn with a wet surface will cause some cooling, but temperatures can quickly rise and may exceed uncomfortable levels of heat. A HydroChill lawn has been shown to create a substantial temperature difference in real-world applications. Although results will vary due to geographic location and local conditions, HydroChill has achieved 30°F – 50°F lower surface temperatures compares to a standard synthetic lawn surface.
Keep your loved ones cool and comfortable with HydroChill.
– HydroChill will not affect the durability or warranty of Shawgrass products.
– HydroChill is UV-resistant and should be retreated every two years for maximum effectiveness.

Reviews


Neal was great and the turf is awesome. Couldn’t be more pleased with the finished product. Neal was super knowledgeable, patient and answered all my questions. He worked extremely hard in meeting the deadline and his attention to detail is second to none. I am already planning on a bigger project and will definitely use ahead of the game. I’ve already recommended him to family, friends and neighbors."

Danielle Lintz

Neal did our turf a few years ago. It was impossible for us to grow grass as we had 2 large dogs, 3 boys, lots of shade, and roots from a huge tree in the middle of the yard!! We tried seeding one summer and nothing took. The next summer we had sod installed and that turned out to be the biggest waste of money!! So we hired Neal and we couldn’t be happier with the results!! We always tell everyone that it is the BEST thing we have done to our house!!! My dogs can play in the yard and come inside without dragging mud with them. My kids play all the time on the turf barefoot and don’t even think twice about it. There is little to no maintenance required, the yard is always green, and we have less bugs all because of the turf! Neal’s price was amazing and his craftsmanship was perfect!! Since we’ve had it installed, we’ve had to move a fence and had a sunroom installed. Neal has come back to fix the turf and make it look seamless and amazing!! We can’t sing his praises enough!!"

Paul & Karen Nardone

Neal and his team did a professional and beautiful job on our Long Beach backyard. He worked tirelessly to be sure it looked perfect. They came every day, on time and the work was done so fast with every detail considered. They were also a pleasure to have around, so nice to our kids. We are so happy we made this decision so our family can enjoy mud free and dog friendly playtime. Thanks Neal!!"

Danielle Hallas

I Have known Neal Amiruddin for many years and he is a very honest person who will work hard to get the job right."

Charlottle Gabrielle

We had Neil do a section of our backyard and strongly recommend his work. The product he uses, is awesome. We have 3 kids, 2 husky dogs, and it still looks as new. Neil was able to maneuver around a swing set and shed with seams and they are unnoticeable. Neil came as promised and completed at the promised price, even though i changed the layout multiple times."

Robert Gallardo

Installation


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Installation Guildlines: 

ShawGrass is a durable turf that requires planning and expertise to install correctly. Preparing the site is critical for long term success and while it will involve the most labor it will also provide the best results. The following guidelines will help to ensure that your projects are planned efficiently and give your customer the results they need.
1. Planning
A. Area: The area for turf installation should be clearly defined and marked.
B. Drainage: Determine whether the project area has an adequate existing drainage or will require additional drains or modified drains, grading or sloping.
C. Soil Condition: Check to see if you will need to wet or soften the ground or use a jackhammer to remove large rocks. Rain soaked soil may need to dry a few days before synthetic turf work begins.
D. Irrigation: Locate existing sprinklers or bubblers for the remaining trees and plants or complete irrigation for trees and plants first. Identify all irrigation lines, electrical conduit, etc. below ground that could be damaged during the synthetic turf installation. Reroute where possible.
Irrigation sprinklers are not needed for lawn turf, you will want to consult your Irrigation specialist to assist in rerouting or shutting off heads. If you opt for the TurfChiller cooling technology you may want to simply change the irrigation settings at the box as your customer will benefit from having an easy watering source.
E. Preventing Future Damage: Determine if additional supplies are needed to prevent damage from rodents or ground animals. Rodent wire (similar to chicken wire) may be appropriate. Secure the entire perimeter to prevent the synthetic turf from being pulled up or damaged by pets.
F. Existing Design Elements: Locate existing concrete borders and determine whether you need to nail into concrete footings. If you are using curbing, edging or border materials, install it prior to cutting the synthetic turf and adding any base material, as this will give you a more accurate measurement for the synthetic turf. Tree roots and pest control should also be considered.
G. Measurements: To reduce labor, measure the project area carefully and design the layout to minimize the number of seams in the synthetic lawn. Plan for a little extra material, especially if you involve curves in your design. A good figure to use is 10%. Use a smart level or transit for proper slope of 2% min.
H. Design Application Tips: All synthetic turf products have a pile (grain) direction that must be taken into account. Note the pile direction and install all sections of synthetic turf in the same pile pattern. Installing synthetic turf in opposing pile patterns may result in noticeable seams.The grain should face toward the primary viewpoint as this will minimize sheen.
MATERIAL PREP
A. TURF
Measure the entire turf area, and order more than enough turf to cover the entire area. Do this even if you only do partial installations over a period of time. Turf is manufactured in individual batches with normal batch to batch variation, so you will want to order enough for your entire job. Turf is typically manufactured in rolls that are 12 or 15 feet wide, so you should break your installation area into 12 or 15 foot wide sections, and then add the total length of these areas. Roll out the turf the day before installation as this will allow the panel to relax. If the synthetic turf has wrinkles, lay it flat on a flat surface in the sun or stretch.
Taller pile heights will require more infill so be mindful of your calculations. Also, remember that turf wrapped closest to the core may be excessively wrinkled, plan on about 18” of waste just to be on the safe side.
B. BASE MATERIAL
You will need approximately two-to-six inches of stone base under your turf. One yard of base material will
cover 80 sq. ft. at 4 inches depth (one yard = one ton). Fine stone or aggregate (89 stone; 1/4” to 5/8” in size) can be applied over a coarse aggregate (57 stone; 1/2” to 3/4” in size), or a mix of coarse and fine aggregate (often referred to as crush and run) can be used. Your local building supply vendor will be your best source, and may offer delivery and installation options.
Avoid using pea gravel as your base material. DO NOT use pea gravel as rounded stone will shift too much. Pea gravel stones have a smooth, round surface, which make them hard to compact. Your local nursery, mulch or stone center will be your best options for gravel.
C. INFILL
Infill helps weigh the turf down and stabilize the fibers to keep them upright and prevent matting. Infill is essential as it assists with drainage and creates a firm, natural feeling base. Specialized infills can be used as well. TurfChiller cools surface temperatures significantly and requires at least 2# per square foot to be effective. Envirofill is an infill that is green in color, offers some cooling properties and has Microban®. Combining the two is a great combination when children or pets are involved.
D. SAND INFILL
In some geographic areas, you may want to use a color coated sand on the top of your infill. Coated sand is more expensive than white or natural sand, so it is normally only used on the top of your infill. A good rate would be 1 lb per sqft. Calculate the amount of sand infill in advance; a good estimate is three-to-five pounds of sand per square foot on 50-80 ounce turf.
E. TURFCHILLERTM
TurfChiller is an evaporative cooling technology used to cool synthetic turf surfaces.The Turf Chiller technology is a pre-coated material so it arrives on site already bonded to the sand infill. Once installed, just hydrate to activate. Turf Chiller requires moisture to provide the long-term cooling effect.
We highly recommend TurfChiller as it is a specialized infill that drives surface temperatures down significantly. When used around families, pets and children it provides an extra level of comfort and provides the best peace of mind on hot days.
F. FABRICS
Don’t forget to procure weed barrier. You may also need a wire mesh rodent barrier if you have had prior rodent problems (gophers, moles, etc).
G. SEAMING MATERIAL
Be sure to have enough seaming tape to run the full length of your seams, as well as adhesive. Take time to do your seams correctly as this will be one of the most noticeable features when complete. Also, please be sure to read all adhesives labels to ensure that they are used and stored correctly.
Plan your project to minimize or hide seams; for example place seams in the back or out of the line of site. Also, consider reworking your design to maintain 15’ widths, this will save a lot of labor and potentially visible seams as well.
H. LANDSCAPE NAILS/SPIKES
(approximately 3.5 – 10 inches in length)
Spikes will be used alongside sidewalks, tree rings and other objects in the area to landscape. They will eventually be covered by infill but you will want to embed them as deeply as possible. There are a variety of spikes available ranging from plastic to galvanized/non-galvanized. Local soils will drive these considerations.
Application will determine size of nail or spikes to use. Nails should be applied approximately every six inches along the perimeter of the installation, as well as along all seams to secure turf.
Use nailer board nails one-to-two inches galvanized or staples 1⁄4 inch – 1⁄2 inch. Shorter nail spacing may be required when using nailer boards.
I. EDGING MATERIAL
Polyboard is superior to other lawn edging products because of its durability and multiple uses. It looks like real wood, but performs like plastic. Polyboard can be bent and curved to fit all your landscaping needs. Pressure treated wood may also be used.
TOOLS & EQUIPMENT
A. SAFETY
  • Rubberized and leather gloves
  • Back braces
  • Knee guards
  • Safety glasses
  • First-aid kit
  • Safety cones—for use on street for materials and equipment
B. MEASURING
  • 100 ft. flexible metal tape measure
  • Snap line for marking long cuts of turf
  • Hard-edge level—two-to-four foot
  • Square or T-square for squaring edges of turf
C. SITE PREPARATION
  • Construction-grade wheel barrows
  • Flat head shovels
  • Spades—rounded head
  • Large picks
  • Small picks
  • Leaf rake
D. BASE PREPARATION
  • Transit or smart level
  • Asphalt or landscape rake (40 inch)
  • Pointed mason trowels – used to clear and clean edges of concrete, etc
  • Hand Tampers (Eight or 10 inch)
  • Water filled roller
  • 2” x 1” x 2’ pieces of wood – for hand tamping edges & small areas
E. TURF CUTTING
  • Commercial quality knives and blades (select a bladeand knife set that is easily changeable and stock up on blades)
F. INFILLING
  • Drop spreaders for small jobs using a small drop spreader (holds approx. 75 lbs. of infill) or for larger areas, using a commercial drop spreader (holds approx. 200 lbs.) or walk-behind or tow behind units.
  • Installation and grooming rakes (poly-nylon)
  • Grooming hand brooms or tools (poly-nylon)
G. MATERIAL HANDLING > 1000 SF
  • Fork lift with forks and 15 foot carpet pole
  • Bungee cords or rope for securing loads
  • Carpet dollies
H. HAND TOOLS
  • Small hand shovel—used to clear and clean around pipes and tight edges
  • Hammers
  • Pliers (various sizes and shapes)
  • Wrench and socket set (for small tool repairs and use in adjusting irrigation, etc)
  • Sledge hammer (medium to large)
  • Rubber mallets
  • Cement chisel for removing extra concrete, rocks or other obstructions
  • Pipe cutter (for modifications to irrigation)
I. POWER TOOLS
  • Power brush to fribulate (bloom) blades
  • Hand saw or power saw to cut bender board, pipes
  • Leaf blower (for cleanup of organic materials and job site areas)
  • Sod cutter (optional rental)
  • Vibratory plate compactor (optional rental)
J. MISC. TOOLS
  • Several small and large tarps or plastic drop cloths
  • Several small containers for used blades and small buckets for hand-filling, small tools and job materials
  • Gas cans for both plain gas and mixes
K. SITE CLEAN UP
  • Water hose (100 ft.) and nozzle with variable heads
  • Brooms (one soft bristle and one hard bristle)
  • Small hand broom for rocks, edges, etc
  • Shop vacuum (two gallon to larger)
 
2. AREA PREPARATION
Call 8-1-1 before you dig to prevent damage to underground utilities and service interruption. This is the universal number for the 71 regional services that coordinate location services for underground public utilities in the U.S.
A. Remove all turfs, sods, mulches, etc. from the marked area. You can do this with a manual shovel, or a gas-powered sod puller (you can rent one at most rental centers) or have a local landscaper remove the existing sod and any landscaping you want removed from your installation area. Excavate two-to-six inches of turf and soil if removing an old lawn. You will later replace this turf and soil with two-to-six inches of stone base material.
B. If you are landscaping around trees, shrubbery, flowers,light poles, utilities, etc., remember to mark around those areas and account for the turf edge configuration.
C. Leave ample area uncovered around the bases of trees.
D. Check on local ordinances on disposal of green waste before starting. Let your site dry out for a few days before excavating.
E. Do not use a tiller to remove turf because that will disturb the soil below the sod and create a poor base. A sod cutter is recommended for large areas. These are available at many tool rental suppliers. A spade or shovel can be used to cut the sod into small strips in small areas.
F. Organic material left under the newly installed surfaces will decompose, which can lead to sub-surface failure. Any newly removed tree stump or root areas should be free of organic materials, then filled and compacted prior to job start.
G. Using an inverted spray can marker, mark off the boundaries for your lawn and to label layout. Remember that synthetic turf comes in either 12-foot or 15-foot widths. Plan your installation with this in mind, to have as few seams as possible with your layout.
H. A variety of edging materials and border solutions may be used for your synthetic turf project. Examples may include transitions from synthetic turf to a flower bed, mulch, stone edging or sidewalks. You may also use synthetic lumber or synthetic turf edging.
I. This is the perfect time to add edges, large rocks, install pavers, stepping stones, walkways and walls.
J. If you have a sprinkler system in the installation area, reroute to perimeter if possible, or cap the unnecessary sprinklers and turn off their valves.
 
3. SOIL COMPACTION
A. It may be necessary to compact the native soil/sub-
grade prior to base construction.
B. In the case where the native soils are soft and/or saturated, it is advisable to install a geotextile to separate the soft soils from the crushed stone base.
C. As a rule of thumb, if there is standing water, or if water comes to the surface under foot, a geotextile should be used.
D. You need to fully firm up the ground that will be the foundation for your turf. You can use a sod roller, or a vibrating plate compactor, which you can rent from your local rental suppliers. Ensure the existing ground is sloped properly or follows the grade of the surrounding area for adequate draining.
E. Apply a high-quality weed and turf killer to the lawn installation area.
F. Determine if additional supplies are needed to prevent damage from weeds, rodents or ground animals. Weed barrier and rodent wire (similar to chicken wire) may be appropriate (this is not always necessary in arid or dry climates).
 
4. BASE CONSTRUCTION
A. A crushed stone base of two-to-six inches should be spread evenly over the prepared area.
B. If using heavy equipment to do so, the equipment should not drive directly upon the prepared site. If it is unavoidable, the operator needs to be cautious of turns that can damage the base.
C. The crushed stone should be a D.O.T. Class 2 aggregate or equivalent, with maximum particle size of 3⁄4”, or approved equal. Class 2 aggregate is available in most areas.
D. The crushed stone should be spread evenly, as smoothly as possible. Use of a finer material will help to aid final grade.
E. For the depth of the base as a rule of thumb, in arid climates such as Las Vegas, Phoenix or San Diego, two inches of base course is sufficient. In climates with more rainfall or a higher water table, such as Seattle, New Orleans, or Houston, up to six inches may be necessary.
F. Lightly spray your surface with water and then firmly compact the sub-base using a hand compactor, landscape roller or vibratory plate compactor.
G. Check for surface depressions. If the base course layer is not as smooth as desired, or there are undesired undulations, it may be necessary to add a layer of fines (stone dust, screenings manufactured sand, etc.) to fill in the low spots or create a level surface. This layer should be kept to a minimum, preferably no more than two inches. This layer must be compacted with a heavy roller or plate compactor. Fill in and re-level any base depression that is more than 1/4” deep.
H. Even though synthetic turf drains water vertically through drainage holes built into it, we also suggest giving the base a very slight slope, away from any buildings, to a proper drainage area to avoid any pooling at all.
J. Continual passes over the project area are required until a compaction rate of 95% or greater is achieved. When dry, the project area should be smooth and firm to eliminate unwanted bumps under the synthetic turf.
K. Add your base starting at the farthest side of the install. Go from edge to edge, not center to edge. Feather base from load to load. The base material should be spread evenly. Grade and level to meet design and drainage requirements. Shape to desired appearance—flat, slight roll, mounded.
L. A gas powered vibratory plate compactor may be rented for larger jobs. Overlap trips with the compactor to minimize ridges and bumps.
M. Do not walk on freshly laid base until it is compacted. Walking in loose base will create holes and uneven spots. An easy way to estimate proper compaction is to step onto the stone base. If you leave a footprint, the base is not compacted enough.
 
5. LAY TURF
A. Roll the synthetic turf out on top of the constructed based, as planned. If the site requires multiple roll widths, be sure to have the lay of the fibers on each roll of turf running in the same direction.
B. When seaming is required, trim the selvedge (un-tufted edge) off turf and lay in the desired position.
C. When trimming selvedge, begin cutting two tuft rows in from edge in order to achieve proper seam strength.
D. Lay the next roll adjacent to the first and repeat Step C. Then butt the seams together.
E. With a carpet or utility knife, trim the overlapped turf to match the trimmed edge of the first roll if necessary.
F. Make all cuts as close as possible without touching. Seam spacing should be no more than 1/8 inch.
G. Repeat as needed for as many roll widths as the job requires.
H. Around the borders, trim the turf to match the edges.
I. If a secured or fastened edge is desired, do not secure the edge until most of the infill is installed (Refer to Step 8). More on this later.
J. When cutting curved edges, cut in small relief cut increments to match the design.
K. Rough-cut the perimeter before any seaming.
L. Always stretch synthetic turf tight to reduce wrinkling.
 
6. SEAMING
A. Fold the adjacent trimmed edges of two rolls of turf approximately two feet apart the entire length of the seam.
B. Mark the centerline of the seam on the exposed base or seaming tape with a chalk line or spray paint.
C. Roll out seam tape centered over the entire length of the seam line. Apply adhesive covering all of the seam tape from one end to the other. Depending on the type of adhesive used, you may need to allow time for vapors/gases to escape (flashing). Refer to the adhesive manufacturer’s directions. The flashing time required may be dependent on ambient temperature and humidity.
D. After adhesive has flashed, lay the edges of each roll of turf directly onto the adhesive/tape, making sure not to bury any turf fibers into the adhesive.
E. Add weight (i.e. sandbags) down the length of the freshly laid seam, or use a heavy roller along the seam length once the adhesive has tacked up. The adhesive drying/curing time will vary with different adhesives dependent upon climatic conditions.
F. After the adhesive has dried, trim off your turf so your lawn fits exactly as you want.
 
7. INFILL INSTALLATION
A. You will also want to stand the turf up vertically with the power broom or stiff bristle broom prior to applying the infill. Do not use steel or wire bristle brooms that can damage the fiber. This keeps all of the turf fibers erect and exposed.
B. In synthetic turf applications, a drop spreader (commonly used to spread turf seed,fertilizer, lime, etc.) should be used to spread the infill in lifts ranging from 1⁄4” to no greater than 1⁄2” depths.
C. Infill should be applied evenly and groomed to ensure consistent infill level.
D. If the borders or edges will be secured, save the infill installation for these areas for last (See step 9).
E. Be sure not to dump the infill in large quantities on the turf, this will cause excessive grooming due to trapped fibers. As you spread the infill, make one entire pass on the on the surface of your new lawn and then sweep the infill deeply into the fibers with a stiff bristle push broom or power broom. Repeat the infill spread/ fiber brooming process until the infill is evenly spread such that no less than 1⁄2” – 3⁄4” of turf fiber tips are exposed above the level of the infill. Repeat this process until all of the infill has been spread and fallen in between the synthetic blades.
F. CAUTION: Too much fiber exposed (not enough infill) will cause the fibers to mat or crush with heavy foot traffic. This will lead to premature wearing of the fiber and will void the manufacturer’s warranty.
G. There may be more than one type of infill used on the same site. In many cases, a combination of silica sand and granulated rubber, or silica sand and manufactured sand topdressing, may be used in layers. In either case, the silica sand is installed first, followed by the granulated rubber
or topdressing.
H. Be sure to follow the site specifications outlining the amount or depth of each infill material.
I. For a 50-to-80 ounce product, typically four pounds per square foot will be used. Heavier products may use up to five pounds per square foot. The exact amount of infill will vary based on the product weight and the desired product reveal. When complete, 1⁄2” to 3⁄4” of the synthetic blades
should be exposed. You may want to consider applying color coated sand as the final layer of infill to best match the local geography. As a rule of thumb you will use one pound per square foot of colored sand.
 
8. SECURE EDGES
The edges can be secured in a number of ways:
A. Landscape Nails and Spikes. Simply hammer landscape spikes, timber spikes, sod staples, etc. into the edge around the perimeter of the turf spaced every 4”-8”.(particularly if you are not planning on using an edging or curbing) The nail heads should be level with the turf backing to prevent turf from dimpling. Afterwards, more trimming may be necessary.
B. Nailer Board. When installed next to a concrete or asphalt curb, a nailer board / synthetic lumber can be installed (preferably in Step 2, Area Preparation) by nailing the board to the curb with concrete nails. The turf can then be nailed into the top of the installed nailer board with a landscape nail. Afterward, more edge trimming of the turf may be necessary.
C. Buried Edges. Excavate a narrow trench around the border, deep enough to bury the exposed edge of the turf. Tuck the turf’s edge into the trench (additional trimming of excess turf may be necessary). Nail and backfill the excavated soil against the buried turf, and compact. The edge can then be hidden with mulch, straw, rock, etc.
D. Depending on your yard and your landscape concepts, you might install edging around your new lawn. Options are incredibly varied and include extruded curbing, 4” x 4” timbers, natural stone, rock, metal edging and plastic edging. If you are not going to apply an edging, we suggest you hammer landscaping nails every 4” to 8” along the perimeter of your synthetic lawn to prevent the edges from lifting.
 
9. FINISH INFILL AND TOP DRESSING
A.If a secured edge was installed, it will probably be necessary to add infill around the border.(Use the technique described in Step 7).


Maintenance


Maintenance Guidelines –

Following these simple suggestions will significantly extend the life and performance of your product:
  • Clean surface regularly (debris and contaminant removal)
  • No vehicle traffic, no heavy static loads, etc.
  • Make sure that minor repairs to your surface are made promptly
 
Cleaning Products:
Enzyme Cleaners – SCOE 10X. Odormute, Odoban, PET Stain-Off! and others.  Follow manufacturer’s instructions for application. These cleaners can be purchased from many online sources.
Vinegar – Use 5% white distilled vinegar and irrigate it through the surface.
Green Cleaners – Shaw R2X, Turf Renu or any type of cleaner that does not contain alcohol, is biodegradable, non-foaming, and products causing low suds are best.
Degreasers or Mineral Spirits – These can be used for paint or petroleum-based stains; however, you must completely rinse these cleaners out of the turf.
Dishwashing Liquid/Household Detergent – Dilute dishwashing liquid or detergent with water (one teaspoon/gallon) for spot cleaning.
Bleach – Used to kill moss and algae prior to cleaning. Dilute bleach (one part bleach to 10 parts water solution); however, you must completely rinse these cleaners out of the turf.
Ammonia – A three percent (3%) solution of ammonia in water may be used in lieu of household detergent for more stubborn residues or stains.
 
Stains
Synthetic turf fibers are among the most stain-resistant fibers. Therefore, most stains on Shaw Grass are not true stains, but residues of foreign matter which must be promptly and thoroughly removed.
Most “stains” commonly associated with synthetic turf can be classified as “water borne” stains. Most stains on synthetic turf can be removed with water or soap and water. The first rule is promptness.  It is much easier to clean up a fresh spill before it has time to harden.
  • Remove any solid or paste-like deposit promptly using a dull knife or spatula-like tool
  • Brush the residue with a stiff brush (not a wire brush)
  • Scrub the area with soap and water
  • Rinse the area thoroughly with clear water to remove all traces of soap
 
Maintenance Care
  • Regular care is required, but is dependent on the volume and type of use.
  • Use a leaf blower to remove fallen leaves and pine straw from trees regularly.  These can trap moisture and not allow the turf to dry out. Blow in a side-to-side motion across the surface to avoid disturbing the infill.
  • In areas prone to moss/algae growth, a periodic application of bleach solution is recommended. Dilute bleach (one part bleach to 10 parts water solution).
  • In areas prone to infill erosion or heavy traffic areas, additional grooming and infill may be required (professional grooming is recommended).
  • Heavily soiled areas may require professional power washing.
 
Pet Care
  • Scoop and dispose of waste materials promptly. Irrigate the area locally but do not hose solid waste away. This just spreads the waste over a larger area.
  • In dry weather, it is okay to leave solid waste to harden before removing. During wet weather, remove all waste immediately to prevent the solids from breaking down.
  • You must assume animals are urinating and treat the entire surface when sanitizing and deodorizing. Most sanitizing products require one gallon per 500 square feet of turf to achieve proper saturation. Use the sprinkler setting on most hose nozzles to drizzle water over the site to drive the treatments down through the turf.
  • The volume of waste and use of the area determines how often the area should be groomed. A single dog may only require weekly sanitation while many dogs may require daily sanitation.
  • Hose down any liquid contaminants with clean water. The backing is porous so water and pet urine will absorb into the ground.
  • During winter and rainy seasons, irrigating is not necessary. During summer months, the area should be irrigated weekly with full strength cleaners to wash treatments deeply into the turf.
  • Substrates, such as concrete or wood, should be cleaned as needed. Avoid cleaners with alcohol or harsh acids as these can damage the turf blades. (Glue down installations should be cleaned and rinsed periodically).
Caution: Common Hazards
  • Use proper PPE (Personal Protective Equipment)
  • Heat and open flame exposure will require replacement of affected area.

Contact


  • Oceanside, New York, United States